Some safe and practical D.I.Y tips
Simplicity is the key for your do-it-yourself supplies, whether they’re items for everyday use or an emergency. Stocking your toolbox in the most efficient manner is the best way to ensure that you and your family are covered in case of a home emergency, and it will give any home handyperson the confidence to conduct a range of creative projects around the home.
For the complete toolbox, consider investing in one of each of the following:
5m tape measure
Spirit level
Claw hammer
Junior hacksaw
Stanley knife
Insulated pliers
A set of assorted screwdrivers
Electrical test screwdriver
Small adjustable spanner
Further stocks could entail:
a large adjustable spanner
a stud detector
a set of paintbrushes
a roller with removable heads
a paint tray.
For home emergency D.I.Y, dedicate some drawer space in the kitchen to a small toolbox with fuse wire and pliers, an electrical test screwdriver, and a bleed key for radiators. These will save you a lot of time and hassles in any home emergency situation. Include an additional sectioned 9′ x 12′ storage box stocked with common household items, such as curtain hooks, double and single hooks, a selection of fuses, aquarium sealant (handy for more than just aquariums!) and black insulation tape. Store a torch and fresh batteries near the fuse board. Always knowing where to find your tools is the key to solving emergency D.I.Y issues. These emergency D.I.Y supplies are not only great to prevent panic if a fuse blows, but are also convenient to have accessible in the house to complete any small job quickly, rather than waiting around until the problem exacerbates and becomes something that you can’t fix yourself or economically.
To maintain larger power tools in premium working order, it’s necessary to ensure condition of the tools by regularly checking if anything needs replacing or repairing. Your power tools and hand tools will provide their optimum performance if they are shown a little care and attention. This is applies to both the power tools that you infrequently touch and those that are used regularly.

such as curtain hooks, double and single hooks, a selection of fuses, aquarium sealant (handy for more than just aquariums!) and black insulation tape

Knowing the ins and outs of emergency do-it-yourself will ensure that considerable time is saved in case of an unplanned situation in the home, whether it’s in the kitchen, the bathroom, a bedroom, or even out and about in the garden. It’s fairly simple to keep yourself covered in a home emergency, just as long as you’re aware of these few handy hints.
Firstly, you’ll need to set yourself up with a small area in the kitchen, preferably some drawer space, as this is one of the easiest places to find in case something goes wrong and you’re left fumbling in the dark. Endeavour to put all necessary equipment together from the beginning, and be sure to remember to replace it after use! For starters, you’ll need a small toolbox with fuse wire and pliers, an electrical test screwdriver, and a bleed key for radiators. These are essential to prevent panic if a fuse blows, and furthermore to complete any small job quickly.
The drawer should also have another little box, but this time it should be a sectioned 9′ x 12′ storage box stocked with common household items, such as curtain hooks, double and single hooks, a selection of fuses, and black insulation tape. Finally, store a torch and fresh batteries near the fuse board. This means that you’ll always know where to find your torch in the dark! Keeping it simple is the key to solving emergency D.I.Y issues.
When it comes to keeping larger power tools in prime working order, it’s essential that you maintain the condition of the tools by regularly checking if anything needs replacing or repairing. This is equally applicable for the power tools that you rarely touch and those that are exposed to everyday usage. Being aware about the quality and condition of your power tools is actually the most cost-effective way to maintain a house or garden, as you won’t be left forking out vast sums for unnecessary replacements or left in the lurch if an item breaks down mid-job.
For the complete toolbox, you’re also wise to invest in quality devices for measuring and double-checking, as a 5m tape measure and a spirit level will kick off any project well. Other essentials include: a claw hammer, junior hacksaw, a Stanley knife, insulated pliers, a set of assorted screwdrivers, an electrical test screw driver, and a small adjustable spanner. From this starting point, you could then expand your collection to include a large adjustable spanner, a stud detector, festoon lighting for refurbishment work and painting equipment: such as a set of paintbrushes, a roller with removable heads and a paint tray.

From this starting point, you could then expand your collection to include a large adjustable spanner, a stud detector, festoon lighting for refurbishment work and painting equipment: such as a set of paintbrushes, a roller with removable heads and a paint tray.

Knowing the ins and outs of emergency do-it-yourself will ensure that considerable time is saved in case of an unplanned situation in the home, whether it’s in the kitchen, the bathroom, a bedroom, or even out and about in the garden. It’s fairly simple to keep yourself covered in a home emergency, just as long as you’re aware of these few handy hints.
Firstly, you’ll need to set yourself up with a small area in the kitchen, preferably some drawer space, as this is one of the easiest places to find in case something goes wrong and you’re left fumbling in the dark. Endeavour to put all necessary equipment together from the beginning, and be sure to remember to replace it after use! For starters, you’ll need a small toolbox with fuse wire and pliers, an electrical test screwdriver, and a bleed key for radiators. These are essential to prevent panic if a fuse blows, and furthermore to complete any small job quickly.
The drawer should also have another little box, but this time it should be a sectioned 9′ x 12′ storage box stocked with common household items, such as curtain hooks, double and single hooks, a selection of fuses, and black insulation tape. Finally, store a torch and fresh batteries near the fuse board. This means that you’ll always know where to find your torch in the dark! Keeping it simple is the key to solving emergency D.I.Y issues.
When it comes to keeping larger power tools in prime working order, it’s essential that you maintain the condition of the tools by regularly checking if anything needs replacing or repairing. This is equally applicable for the power tools that you rarely touch and those that are exposed to everyday usage. Being aware about the quality and condition of your power tools is actually the most cost-effective way to maintain a house or garden, as you won’t be left forking out vast sums for unnecessary replacements or left in the lurch if an item breaks down mid-job.
For the complete toolbox, you’re also wise to invest in quality devices for measuring and double-checking, as a 5m tape measure and a spirit level will kick off any project well. Other essentials include: a claw hammer, junior hacksaw, a Stanley knife, insulated pliers, a set of assorted screwdrivers, an electrical test screw driver, and a small adjustable spanner. From this starting point, you could then expand your collection to include a large adjustable spanner, a stud detector, festoon lighting for refurbishment work and painting equipment: such as a set of paintbrushes, a roller with removable heads and a paint tray.

From this starting point, you could then expand your collection to include a large adjustable spanner, a stud detector, festoon lighting for refurbishment work and painting equipment: such as a set of paintbrushes, a roller with removable heads and a paint tray.

Measuring
When measuring the quantity of artificial grass required it is essential to incorporate an overlap of 100mm over each edge for coverage of the timber perimeter.

Survey
Undertake a ground survey to ascertain whether or not the terrain is subject to poor drainage, thereby retaining surface water. In such cases, in order to ensure a satisfactory base for EverLawn® artificial grass, measures should be taken to install appropriate and adequate below surface, drainage. We would advise the crushed aggregate followed by a sand infill method.

Installation Guide
Consideration should be given to the weight of some of the materials required. Either remove the existing turf manually or hire a turf cutter to save time and labour.

Crushed aggregate followed by sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 3inches or 90mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm
Then using 4inch x 1inch or 100mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting)  screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If artificial grass meets a concrete path or wall then position the 4 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

Sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 1 inch and a half inches or 45mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm. Then using 2inch x 1inch or 50mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting) screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If the turf meets a concrete path or wall then position the 2 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

With heavy clay soils we recommended laying a crushed stone surface of 3inches or 70mm. This isn’t necessary for the majority of lawns and only required if the ground holds water for a long period of time after rain. If your lawn floods then you do need to install adequate drainage at this stage. Compact the crushed stone using a wacker plate which can be hired from your local hire shop. Ensure the perimeters are compacted and below the timber edging by 1inch or 25mm.

Lay in the desired direction and overlap the timber perimeter with artificial grass by 4inches. Then tuck down into the ground and fix to the timber with 1inch galvanized nails. Then rake the soil to within 1ich of the surface of the artificial grass. If the artificial turf meets a path or wall and the instructions in section 2 have been completed then the artificial grass can be wedged between.

On large areas a join may be required. First lay each piece of artificial grass together ensuring the pile of each piece falls in the same direction and has an overhang of 4 inches around the perimeter. At this stage it is important to use a sharp Stanley Knife. Peel back the two grass joins. Very carefully cut the underside of the carpet as close to the stitch line as possible on each carpet.

The accuracy of this will determine how visible the join is after completion. Then pull both pieces of artificial grass together ensuring the gab between the stitching is no greater than 2mm. Then peel back the two pieces and anchor ready to glue. Position the tape onto the weed membrane and fix through both materials into the sub base with galvanized nails to prevent the tape moving. Carefully but liberally pour the adhesive to cover the tape with a glue depth of approximately 3mm. Once all the glue has reached a whitish colour it is then time to begin fixing the grass edges. Carefully lay the edges of in their final position ensuring each piece marries up and has no overlap.

As you are doing this, with your fingers mix the grass fibers together to conceal the join. Once the whole length is in place and you are happy with the appearance it is necessary to walk along the join several times thus activating the glue and bonding the grass to the tape. Small amounts of adhesive can be removed from the grass fibers using White Spirit and a small off cut of the turf. Small amounts of cured glue can usually be removed quite easily however to avoid the possibility of damage precautions should be taken to avoid contact at all times.

Give your garden the look it deserves with Everlawn Artificial grass, Astroturf and artificial turf.

Measuring
When measuring the quantity of artificial grass required it is essential to incorporate an overlap of 100mm over each edge for coverage of the timber perimeter.

Survey
Undertake a ground survey to ascertain whether or not the terrain is subject to poor drainage, thereby retaining surface water. In such cases, in order to ensure a satisfactory base for EverLawn® artificial grass, measures should be taken to install appropriate and adequate below surface, drainage. We would advise the crushed aggregate followed by a sand infill method.

Installation Guide
Consideration should be given to the weight of some of the materials required. Either remove the existing turf manually or hire a turf cutter to save time and labour.

Crushed aggregate followed by sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 3inches or 90mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm
Then using 4inch x 1inch or 100mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting)  screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If artificial grass meets a concrete path or wall then position the 4 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

Sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 1 inch and a half inches or 45mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm. Then using 2inch x 1inch or 50mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting) screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If the turf meets a concrete path or wall then position the 2 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

With heavy clay soils we recommended laying a crushed stone surface of 3inches or 70mm. This isn’t necessary for the majority of lawns and only required if the ground holds water for a long period of time after rain. If your lawn floods then you do need to install adequate drainage at this stage. Compact the crushed stone using a wacker plate which can be hired from your local hire shop. Ensure the perimeters are compacted and below the timber edging by 1inch or 25mm.

Lay in the desired direction and overlap the timber perimeter with artificial grass by 4inches. Then tuck down into the ground and fix to the timber with 1inch galvanized nails. Then rake the soil to within 1ich of the surface of the artificial grass. If the artificial turf meets a path or wall and the instructions in section 2 have been completed then the artificial grass can be wedged between.

On large areas a join may be required. First lay each piece of artificial grass together ensuring the pile of each piece falls in the same direction and has an overhang of 4 inches around the perimeter. At this stage it is important to use a sharp Stanley Knife. Peel back the two grass joins. Very carefully cut the underside of the carpet as close to the stitch line as possible on each carpet.

The accuracy of this will determine how visible the join is after completion. Then pull both pieces of artificial grass together ensuring the gab between the stitching is no greater than 2mm. Then peel back the two pieces and anchor ready to glue. Position the tape onto the weed membrane and fix through both materials into the sub base with galvanized nails to prevent the tape moving. Carefully but liberally pour the adhesive to cover the tape with a glue depth of approximately 3mm. Once all the glue has reached a whitish colour it is then time to begin fixing the grass edges. Carefully lay the edges of in their final position ensuring each piece marries up and has no overlap.

As you are doing this, with your fingers mix the grass fibers together to conceal the join. Once the whole length is in place and you are happy with the appearance it is necessary to walk along the join several times thus activating the glue and bonding the grass to the tape. Small amounts of adhesive can be removed from the grass fibers using White Spirit and a small off cut of the turf. Small amounts of cured glue can usually be removed quite easily however to avoid the possibility of damage precautions should be taken to avoid contact at all times.

Give your garden the look it deserves with Everlawn Artificial grass, Astroturf and artificial turf.

Some say that the Boxster is for anyone who cannot afford a 9-11 yet still wants a Porsche, but the Boxster is worth every penny, if you have the money to spend. It’s beautifully crafted, and you get what you pay for with this one, the materials used are sumptuous and quality rich. It’s an expensive car, starting at £34,000, but it will make you stand out from the crowd in a cloud of elegance and sophistication. With a soft top designed for showing off, you will turn heads, but beware the avid burglar with a Stanley knife who wants to make off with your possessions.
It handles well at both high and low speeds, turns on the head of a pin and offers really powerful anti lock brakes. The engine is quiet, so there is no need to shout over the hum as you get to faster speeds. The steering wheel is adjustable for added comfort, and when the sun is shining, put the roof down! For ease, it goes down when stationary and in transit, up to speeds of 31mph, and goes up and down within 12 seconds, to protect you from the naturally changeable English weather. If the rain starts, you’ll be dry in no time!
Inside the car it’s really comfy, and there is plenty of room in the boot for you to store your luggage. The boot is split into two compartments for ease of separation, and is the roomiest for cars in this bracket.
The Boxster offers stability control, and comes complete with an alarm and deadlocks for added protection.
If you have the money to do so, then investing in the Boxster is a great idea. The value of the car depreciates very little over the years, and should you try to sell after three, you will still retain 70 percent of the value, which isn’t something to be sniffed at.
When driving your new Porsche, make sure that you have comprehensive Car Insurance Cheap policies are readily available online, and you can save time and money by doing it this way.

Some say that the Boxster is for anyone who cannot afford a 9-11 yet still wants a Porsche, but the Boxster is worth every penny, if you have the money to spend. It’s beautifully crafted, and you get what you pay for with this one, the materials used are sumptuous and quality rich. It’s an expensive car, starting at £34,000, but it will make you stand out from the crowd in a cloud of elegance and sophistication. With a soft top designed for showing off, you will turn heads, but beware the avid burglar with a Stanley knife who wants to make off with your possessions.
It handles well at both high and low speeds, turns on the head of a pin and offers really powerful anti lock brakes. The engine is quiet, so there is no need to shout over the hum as you get to faster speeds. The steering wheel is adjustable for added comfort, and when the sun is shining, put the roof down! For ease, it goes down when stationary and in transit, up to speeds of 31mph, and goes up and down within 12 seconds, to protect you from the naturally changeable English weather. If the rain starts, you’ll be dry in no time!
Inside the car it’s really comfy, and there is plenty of room in the boot for you to store your luggage. The boot is split into two compartments for ease of separation, and is the roomiest for cars in this bracket.
The Boxster offers stability control, and comes complete with an alarm and deadlocks for added protection.
If you have the money to do so, then investing in the Boxster is a great idea. The value of the car depreciates very little over the years, and should you try to sell after three, you will still retain 70 percent of the value, which isn’t something to be sniffed at.
When driving your new Porsche, make sure that you have comprehensive Car Insurance Cheap policies are readily available online, and you can save time and money by doing it this way.

Electrical Circuits ‒ introducing a spur to your ring circuit from the junction box

Difficulty degree

Advanced

Set of tools essential

Screws

Hand Tools

Screwdrivers

Wire strippers/ Stanley knife

Electrical tester tools

Cable clips

Approximate time for you to complete

Allow around three hrs

Amount of risk

Large ‒ electrical power can be dangerous

Exactly why are we carrying it out?

The simplest and most simple method of installing a supplementary socket or fused electric outlet to an existing ring circuit is always to put in a spur.

Precisely how to do it

1. Start by checking you have a 30amp junction box ‒ this really is necessary for adding a new spur.

2. The next step is to find out where the nearest cable is to the site of the new outlet or fused outlet. This needs to be part of the existing ring circuit. You will probably need to lift the floorboards to find the cable.

3. The next thing is to fit the junction box. To accomplish this, 1st make a a small plinth to sit between the joists. This will work as a ‘platform’ for the junction box.

4. Employ screws to secure the particular plinth towards the joists as well as the junction box onto the plinth.

5. Shut off your electricity supply.

6. Test a outlet on the ring main you intend to spur from to make sure that the electrical power is off.

7. Make use of wire strippers in order to remove the insulating material from the part of your cable that will fit into the junction box. You should now be able to observe three individual wires.

8. Remove the insulation from the live and neutral wires. The earth wire is already uncovered but has to be earth sleeved prior to connection

9. Undo your anchoring screws from your terminals within the junction box.

10. Put the exposed wires in the terminal holes, ensuring the earth wire is positioned in the middle hole.

11. Place the screws back into the terminal holes but keep these loose for the time being.

12. Now you can fit and join the mounting box and also face plate of the outlet or fused connection unit

13. Position the ends of the fresh cable in to the terminal holes on the junction box, ensuring you match up the colors up correctly.

14. Fasten your screws securely.

15. Position the cover of the junction box in place and screw down the lid.

16. Any loose cable should be fastened with cable clips

17. Turn the electricity back on and try out the socket or fused outlet using an electrical tester.

Toolbox are the UKs fastest growing online Power Tools, Hand Tools, Automotive Tools and Gardening Tools retailer

Electrical Circuits ‒ introducing a spur to your ring circuit from the junction box

Difficulty degree

Advanced

Set of tools essential

Screws

Hand Tools

Screwdrivers

Wire strippers/ Stanley knife

Electrical tester tools

Cable clips

Approximate time for you to complete

Allow around three hrs

Amount of risk

Large ‒ electrical power can be dangerous

Exactly why are we carrying it out?

The simplest and most simple method of installing a supplementary socket or fused electric outlet to an existing ring circuit is always to put in a spur.

Precisely how to do it

1. Start by checking you have a 30amp junction box ‒ this really is necessary for adding a new spur.

2. The next step is to find out where the nearest cable is to the site of the new outlet or fused outlet. This needs to be part of the existing ring circuit. You will probably need to lift the floorboards to find the cable.

3. The next thing is to fit the junction box. To accomplish this, 1st make a a small plinth to sit between the joists. This will work as a ‘platform’ for the junction box.

4. Employ screws to secure the particular plinth towards the joists as well as the junction box onto the plinth.

5. Shut off your electricity supply.

6. Test a outlet on the ring main you intend to spur from to make sure that the electrical power is off.

7. Make use of wire strippers in order to remove the insulating material from the part of your cable that will fit into the junction box. You should now be able to observe three individual wires.

8. Remove the insulation from the live and neutral wires. The earth wire is already uncovered but has to be earth sleeved prior to connection

9. Undo your anchoring screws from your terminals within the junction box.

10. Put the exposed wires in the terminal holes, ensuring the earth wire is positioned in the middle hole.

11. Place the screws back into the terminal holes but keep these loose for the time being.

12. Now you can fit and join the mounting box and also face plate of the outlet or fused connection unit

13. Position the ends of the fresh cable in to the terminal holes on the junction box, ensuring you match up the colors up correctly.

14. Fasten your screws securely.

15. Position the cover of the junction box in place and screw down the lid.

16. Any loose cable should be fastened with cable clips

17. Turn the electricity back on and try out the socket or fused outlet using an electrical tester.

Toolbox are the UKs fastest growing online Power Tools, Hand Tools, Automotive Tools and Gardening Tools retailer

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The Plastering Training Centre at Able Skills has been designed with the intention of being able to teach every aspect of plastering and rendering under one roof. We have designated areas for beginners, areas for intermediate and advanced students, areas for qualification students and areas to learn external plastering.

The layout of our Plastering Centre is intended to move you smoothly through various stages and areas of plastering if progression is your choice.

In this designated 10 days, we intend to teach you the basics of plastering and then move you to a more advanced level which will also benefit you in building on your speed and mastering your plastering technique.

This Plastering Courses is suited to those of you looking to enter the plastering industry but equally, is well suited to anyone who is looking to undertake plastering projects at home.

During our 10 day plastering course we will cover every aspect of Plastering that we can and feel confident that after spending that amount of time with us, you will be ready to tackle everyday plastering requirements. Should you be looking to do a DIY project or for a change in career, we feel confident that any of the plastering courses we offer will suit your needs.

Throughout the 10 days of plastering training, we will supply all tools and materials to ensure that you have a very good understanding on how and when to use:

•Hawk
•Steel Floating Trowel
•Gauging Trowel
•Plastic Floating Trowel
•Hammer
•Internal Angle Trowel
•Straight Edge
•Stanley Knife
•Tape Measure
•Saw
•Tin Snips

This programme of combined Introductory and Advanced Plastering is available using weekend training – 4 weekends in total.

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Plastering Courses-Able Skills Plastering Courses provide excellent short course training and City %26 Guilds and NVQ qualifications.